Innovation and disruption are concepts that get thrown around a lot. Disruption is the byproduct of true innovation. Real innovators disrupt by long-term thinking and imagining the impossible—they don't peddle in quick fixes and gimmicks.
Dr. Fred Zülli has been at the forefront of the biotech revolution. Mibelle Biochemistry has been researching, developing, and manufacturing active ingredients inspired by nature—realized by science for the cosmetic and nutraceutical industries since 1991. The Swiss company has earned a reputation for its innovative approach and use of cutting-edge technology in biotechnology and biochemistry.
Its scientists transform naturally derived plant compounds into truly functional bioactive cosmetic ingredients using state-of-the-art technologies that guarantee optimum bioavailability and ensure maximum effectiveness. At Mibelle Biochemistry, all actives are supported by a biochemical concept, clinical studies—in vitro and in vivo—and considerable marketing documentation, which includes convincing selling tools, formulation guidelines, and advantageous claim substantiation.
Big new ideas don't go far in beauty without execution and marketing. Successful breakthroughs require storytelling that makes the science accessible. Dr. Zülli believes the company's strength lies in its flexibility and ability to adapt quickly to new market requirements.
You are the embodiment of an innovative entrepreneur. Biotech beauty has become mainstream over the past few years, but you were decades ahead of this trend, launching Mibelle Biochemistry in 1991. How did the study of molecular biology and biophysics lead you to the cosmetic industry?
In research, a significant amount of time is dedicated to conducting experiments and collecting data. Throughout my studies, I learned the importance of first selecting the right project and formulating the right questions before delving into the work. This approach aligns well with the cosmetics industry where it is crucial to focus on research topics that interest consumers rather than those that primarily appeal to the academic community.
Innovation and disruption are concepts that get thrown around a lot but can be difficult to harness. It takes curiosity, discipline, the freedom to fail, and understanding what it takes to commercialize new ideas. How have you created a culture that supports innovations while remaining laser-focused on commercialization?
Innovation is both a scientific discipline and a cultural concept, making it challenging to achieve and manage. Despite this complexity, many companies today claim to be exceptionally innovative workplaces. Over 25 years ago, I began exploring the principles of innovation and integrated them into our daily operations. Innovation is essential not only in research and development but also in marketing and sales, where it is crucial for meeting commercial objectives.
There are hubs around the globe that are known as hotbeds of innovation; Switzerland and, more specifically, Geneva is one of them. Can you share the dynamics in Switzerland that create and foster innovation?
Switzerland is a small country lacking natural resources such as oil, gold, extensive agricultural advantages, or access to the sea. As a result, life has historically been challenging, necessitating creativity for survival. This may explain why education has always played a crucial role in Switzerland, fostering a culture of innovation and problem solving that is integral to our way of life.
As an extension, the brands and businesses "made in Switzerland" are known for precision, discretion, and quality. As it pertains to beauty, Swiss law is also stricter than many EU states regarding claims. How do these cultural and regulatory standards inform how you do business?
In Switzerland, we value quality, punctuality, and adherence to rules. These standards are deeply ingrained in our beauty industry and contribute to the success of Swiss-made products, including cosmetic brands and active ingredients.
Your tagline "inspired by nature—realized by science" truly grounds the business's positioning and frames your work. Can you unpack the meaning of the tagline for us?
It has been over 20 years since we created our slogan, “Inspired by nature—realized by science,” and we are proud that this tagline is more relevant to the industry now than ever before. By closely observing nature, we uncover fascinating solutions to problems, a concept known as bioinspiration or biomimicry. However, sometimes this is not sufficient. That's why Mibelle Biochemistry has developed groundbreaking technologies, such as plant stem cell cultivation, to introduce novel and sustainable active ingredients.
The Mibelle Group has a unique business model ranging from developing active ingredients to private-label manufacturing. How does offering and how you engage your customers differentiate you from your competitors?
As Mibelle Group is also a division of Migros, Switzerland's largest retailer, we are fully integrated into the entire value chain—from developing active ingredients to manufacturing cosmetics and retailing products. Operating within this unique environment has enabled us to effectively address the concerns of all stakeholders in the creation of our active ingredients.
Mibelle Biochemistry has built a reputation for being on the cutting edge of science for over three decades, from plant stem cell research that led to the blockbuster apple stem cell PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica in 2008, to your latest research with exosomes. The latter is the newest beauty buzzword. What excites you about this exosome research and the ingredients you are creating?
Exosomes have become a buzzword in recent years, but their discovery dates back to the 1980s, with their potential as vesicles for medical treatments being recognized in the 1990s. Mibelle Biochemistry has been closely monitoring exosome research over the past decade and was ahead of the curve by launching the first active ingredient with exosome activity in 2019, well before the trend gained momentum. Exosomes present significant opportunities in the cosmetics industry; however, those derived from human tissue can pose risks. As a result, we prioritize the use of plant-derived or reconstructed exosomes.
The business you have built is grounded in science, but you are also an intuitive marketer, which might be the secret superpower because commercializing novel ingredients and complex scientific breakthroughs is not easy. Where does the role of marketing fit into the innovation and commercialization process?
Founded in 1991, Mibelle Biochemistry began with a small team of researchers focused on exploring delivery systems like liposomes and developing an innovative immune-boosting molecule derived from yeast. What set us apart from other start-ups was our early decision to hire a marketing professional and integrate innovative tools into our marketing and sales processes right from the beginning.
While you have grown into a global business, you remain close to your clients, establishing offices in the US and France and regionalizing your offering. Your entrepreneurial DNA provides a unique understanding of the needs of indie brands. How do you help give these brands a competitive edge?
Active ingredients serve two key roles in a cosmetic product. Firstly, they enhance the formulation's performance. Secondly, they contribute to the product's narrative. At Mibelle Biochemistry, we specialize in developing customized ingredients that offer unique or exclusive benefits for brands. Additionally, we craft compelling stories that make scientific concepts accessible to consumers. Our comprehensive content packages are also highly appealing to influencers, enabling them to effectively share these stories with their audiences.
In true entrepreneurial fashion, Mibelle Biochemistry is exploring new opportunities, creating a second product portfolio in food supplements, and launching a B2B product distributed in the professional channel for microneedling. What is the white space you see in the supplement sector?
The food supplement market is experiencing a surge of new opportunities. Following the pandemic, consumer interest in innovative products continues to rise, with “longevity” and “biohacking” emerging as key drivers of this growth. At Mibelle Biochemistry, we are at the forefront of longevity research, focusing on the hallmarks of aging and the Blue Zone concept. Our goal is to discover new plant-based extracts that can delay epigenetic aging and enhance gut-brain communication.
What was the calculus for launching a branded product targeting the professional channel, specifically microneedling?
Our LAB91 needling serum has been expertly developed to introduce a branded product to the market. It is grounded in our extensive knowledge of selecting the most suitable molecules for needling applications and producing these ingredients with the required level of purity.
The beauty landscape is undergoing a transformative evolution, moving faster than ever before. What trends excite you, and what's next for Mibelle Biochemistry?
Leveraging our expertise in activating the gut-brain axis within the food supplement industry, we are thrilled to explore the activation of the skin-brain axis. We refer to this innovative product category as Neurocosmetics 2.0.
In this category, active ingredients not only benefit the skin but also affect the brain through topical application. Our studies demonstrated that a timut pepper extract from Nepal can activate skin nerve cells. In a clinical trial, a cream containing this extract improved the mood of stressed volunteers. Interestingly, this timut pepper extract has also been shown to enhance cognitive function when taken orally as a food supplement.
We aim to continuously evolve with emerging trends, shifting markets, updates in technology and most importantly, consumer needs.
